Theory 11 competition

My buddy told me on facebook about this competition going on at Theory 11's website. I encourage all of my readers to compete! If anything, you'll get feedback. Make sure you check out everyone else's submissions as well.

Here's the link

Playing with the SWE

Just thought I'd record a video because it's been a while.

FAQs

On this post I will try and answer a lot of the questions I have gotten and continue to get in my e-mail.

Where can I get your DVD?

A google search for my name should yield plenty of results.

When did you get started with cards?

Around my 13th birthday, so 14 years ago.

What the best gambling move for me to learn to impress people?

A good bottom deal

Are you coming to my hometown for a lecture anytime soon?

My lectures were only performed for close, personal friends. If I start doing a lecture 'tour' I will post a schedule on this site.

Will you be making another DVD?

There are no plans at this time for any more DVD’s.

What are good sources to learn gambling moves?

Anything by Darwin Ortiz, Steve Forte, Sal Piacente, and of course Erdnase.

How often to you practice?

In my prime, probably about 3 solid hours a day.

Do you cheat in real life?

No, never. I have done a ‘hidden camera’ game where I cheated but the players were told at the end what happened and signed a talent release form.

Do you provide tutoring services?

Maybe if you were in Vegas I would consider it, but I will not upload videos/tips of tutorials by request.

Will you look at my video/critique my idea(s)?

Sure. I have a passion for this stuff so I enjoy talking about innovative ideas or new handling. Feel free to send me videos or text and I'll tell you what I think!

Erdnase?

I realize I haven't updated recently, but I just had a thought. Being that the typewriter was invented in the 1870s, we can assume that Erdnase used one, or at least had knowledge of one. What if the name 'SW Erdnase' is a code based on the position of the keys on the typewriter? For example, what if it was about shifting left or right to spell something else?
Just a concept.
-JW

PS I just about freaked when I tried shifting over one to the left and spelled Wes.

Hiatus

Doing a bunch of traveling during April, so I won't be updating the blog. Good news is I'll be coming back April 21st with a new set of eyes so I won't be needing glasses anymore!

Notes to self

If you ever try to hide a palm by holding onto something- don't pick a clear glass of water.

Erdnase One Handed Shift

Dollar Bill Origami 2

Next useless talent is coming along nicely. Now I can do an elephant, a jumping frog, and a heart. Thanks to Marco Fernandez for directing me to the online instructions

Thumbing it

So, after reading a post of one of my biggest fans about my Shifts of Erdnase video, I thought some points he made had substance. I started browsing my sources looking for a better video representation of the shifts without the errors, specifically the thumb popping out when the packets transpose.

Well guess what I found?! A video from the fantom (clever, huh?) himself! So I decided I would return the favor and post a few still frames of him performing the exact same errors:

Excuses of the fantom:

(1) Uh, the video is old, but trust me, since then I have perfected everything ever conceived!

(2) I was rushing, yeah that’s it!

(3) I was testing new video equipment, especially the thumb pop out editing effect.

(4) I pointed out the flaws myself when I posted it. “Here’s my video-it stinks”

(5) It’s still better than yours! Nanny nanny boo boo

(6) I don’t claim to teach anything, just that I know everything.

Here is the difference between our blogs. I do consider this a teaching blog- but I don’t believe for a second I am an ‘expert’ in Erdnase techniques.

I, like Erdnase “do not claim to know it all”

I do feel this blog has something to offer for those starting out with Expert at the Card Table (which is the majority of my readers). Maybe it will evoke thought for some of those more proficient in Erdnase. That's why I really try to break everything down to an elementary level. I'm trying to spread interest in a book that I really enjoy.

If I really thought I was a world class pro at these techniques, I wouldn’t be putting my tips up on a free blog.

Confessions of the Cardshark- Money back guaranteed.

Marlo On Erdnase Review Part 3

Variations of K.M. Move Force

Interesting variation of a slip force, with the riffle being performed from the performers side as opposed to the spectators. I believe the latter to be superior because of the openness it implies.

Art Altman’s Handling

A slight variation of the Backslip force described in the Royal Road to card magic, except this explanation takes a full page and 4 figures.

One-Cut, Double-Control

How to control two selected cards to the top using a slip cut under a block of cover cards. Good thing we have 5 photos to help us grasp it.

More Slip Cuts

Similar to the Marlo slip-cut, except you don’t use the thumb to peel off the top card. Not bad stuff, but nothing to do with Erdnase. Another 5 photos for those who can’t read. With as many page filling photos this book has, it might make a good flip book.

A Variation

Only works when the top card is face up.

Strictly on the Table

With a heading like that, I get the feeling we’re going to learn something practical. Let’s take a peak. Meh, it’s not bad, but it’s nothing new. There are two problems with this method. One is the sloppiness of the apparent bottom half. Friction will do it’s part, and make the cut look funky. The accompanying photo even shows this, but is explained as “exaggerated for explanation purposes”. Ah, what a great phrase for people that can’t do a move justice. Two is the hop of the apparent bottom half when you cut away the apparent top half. It falls to the table, and gives a tell.

Second Method

Ok, so get this. This is apparently the Second method for “Strictly on the Table” and it starts with “The deck is in your left hand in dealing position”.

I like the get-ready concept, but the handling requires you to hold the cards unnaturally. Good for performing an effect where you tell the story of playing poker with a Polar Bear who cut the deck in this manner.

Third Method

Another “strictly on the table” slip cut where the deck starts in your hands(?). Think classic pass false cut with a cover card and you have this method. Remember Erdnase? Man, I sure do miss him.

Shufflers slip cut

The preface justifies this portion of the book by explaining the other slip cuts were made by the ends instead of the sides. I smell a horde of variations and rehash coming up.

Think combination of Erdnase one handed fancy true cut, and tabled slip cut and you’ll get the idea. Bad from the front. If you are performing for the world’s tallest man then you’d be set!

Marlo Technique for the Top and Bottom slip cut

A tabled slip cut that uses a get ready to eliminate the straining first finger clamping down that top card. This is something practical.

Bottom Slip Cut

Do a get ready, a center block pull out, and throw on top simulating a cut. This is a good way to perform the center block pull out in Erdnase’s To Retain Bottom Stock-Riffle 2 and Cut 4. Woo Hoo! Something to use!

First Technique.

Slip cut performed slightly off the table, maintaining just the bottom card while apparently cutting the deck.

Second technique

Same thing, using different fingers.

Third technique

Same as the bottom slip cut, but using different digits.

Side note: Do we really need a variation for using each of the different fingers? I mean, a whole different section heading for each one? Give me a break.

Marlo Double Slip Cut

Ever have two aces on top, two aces on bottom, and want to cut the deck in two halves with an ace on top and bottom of each packet? Neither have I.

Dealing- No-Touch Second Deal

If you don’t know it, you should. This is a good source, but check out Seconds Centers and Bottoms for more detailed explanation.

S.F. Grip

Second Deal- First method

If you think the Erdnase grip is unnatural looking, you haven’t seen the S.F. Grip. Imagine taking the second card from the upper left corner instead of the right. It makes no sense, and is added like so many things in this book, as a variation to fill space.

Second Method

So instead of pushing the top card over to the right as you would in a normal dealing action. Try pulling it to the left to expose the top corner of the second card. What on earth are we talking about here? Most people (including myself) have a problem making the thumb look natural when we push the card the normal way and take the second card. Pulling the top card to the left is insane, and useless.

S.F. Natural Second Deal

No touch theory applied to the SF Grip

S.F Bottom Deal

Want your bottom deal to look like Jiggaboo Jones’ does? Use the S.F Bottom deal and take it from the wrong end! Actually, in this version the right thumb doesn’t even touch the top of the deck so there is no way people will believe you are taking the top card! Better bottom deal goes to Jiggaboo:

Missing Finger Deal

Curl your finger to prevent finger flash. Done and done.

New Bottom Stud

Take the bottom card out exactly as Erdnase describes not to.

Havana Deals

A quick quote: “Students may initially question why he devised six techniques? Why not simply choose the best one?”

Hit the nail on the head here. The real answer is that page numbers sell books that lack real substance. That said, I’m skipping all six techniques because I’m fed up with a page and two photos describing essentially the same thing 6 times.

Greased Bottom Deal

Uses a concealed position of the cards to ease in false deals.

First Application

Use this deal to show your friends that you spent time practicing the useless Greased Bottom Deal. Seriously, if you are going to do a bottom deal in a card trick, you should be good at it and not need to use shortcuts like this one.

Second Application

Bottom deal aces into your hand. These are applications of any bottom deal.

Third Application

Similar to the second application but uses aces AND kings. Gasp! Erdnase explains how to double duke in Expert. Oh, and a point about Vernon making a mistake in Revelations. Speaking of writing mistakes, the previous paragraph seems familiar:

“Erdnase mentions the Stud Deal for turning the trump card but does not recommend attempting it for a bottom deal because ‘the inverted position of the hand makes it more difficult to get the bottom card out noiselessly’ He recommended getting the bottom card free then turning it Stud-fashion.”

pages 95 AND 110 of Marlo on Erdnase.

Was this book compiled of notes on napkins? Did anyone even edit this?

Multiple Minus Bottom Deal

Greek Deals + Erdnase= non existent. This however is a good explanation of how to accomplish a Greek Deal

One Hand-Bottom Deals

Marlo apparently was the one who discovered bottom dealing is easier with a packet then a full deck. Wait, what? That’s in Erdnase?

“Bottom dealing is little used with a full deck. It becomes much easier as the pack grows less, consequently the dealer waits until the last several rounds before resorting to it.”

I’ve never been a fan of dealing one handed to yourself. The swing of the hand to propel the bottom card out looks fishy to me. I prefer using the bottom deal to “spring” a card out to someone, as Erdnase did.

Throw Bottom Deal

Racherbaumer is on point in this preface. He mentions that no top deal really conforms to a one handed bottom and provides his solution.

Outward Deal

Using inertia to shoot a card forward out of a deck

Inward Deal

Using inertia to shoot a card inward out of a deck

Flat Hand Bottom Deals

I’d rather use straddle grip, but this idea works too.

Second Method

Hey look at that, I predicted the future. The Flat Hand Bottom Deal using a straddle grip

Third Method

What is this, ways to deal the cards if you’ve had a stroke? What is it with unnatural handling that had Marlo so fascinated? I seriously would not be surprised if there was a method for dealing bottoms underwater in this book.

Dealing Bottoms Underwater

No way. No friggin way. Yeah, alright I’m just joking. Let’s keep rolling

See my review of the earlier parts of the book here

Dollar Bill Origami

An elephant out of a dollar bill? Yeah, that just happened. Behold the first step in the next useless talent I will attempt!

Shifts from Erdnase

Thoughts on 'Cold Culling' technique

Anyone that has seen Weapons of the Cardshark 2 knows I love me some cold culling (taking a random deck and securing a good poker hand in minimal time). In my years since putting out the DVD I’ve learned some tips that may help you along your track if you are playing with any type of cull.

In my opinion, there are three hands worth culling for any demonstration. Weak enough that you can cull them with speed, but powerful enough to leave an impression on the audience. They are: (1) a straight, (2) a flush, or (3) a full house. If I’ve learned anything in my years of doing this stuff, it’s that when spectators see one of these hands (during a culling demo) the rank doesn’t really compute. It just registers as a strong hand in their mind.

Now you may ask why I put them in that order? Well let’s take a look at the ranking of poker hands

Let’s focus on that middle row. So a straight is the weakest of the three, followed by a flush, followed by a full house.

So what am I getting at?

Well, let me ask you this. Why are these hands ranked the way they are? It all comes down to statistics. Out of 5 random cards, you are more likely to pull a straight than a full house because of the different combinations of cards that could make up the hand, therefore, a full house is harder to get and ranked higher.

So let's talk about this and how to apply it to culling:

Starting from the top, step one is to peek the top two cards. Because we are on a time crunch when we cull, we want to have as many options as possible when fishing through the cards.

Let’s say we spot a 6 and 8 of clubs.

When we cull, we should shoot for a straight. Why? Because it’s the easiest of the three hands to cull and these two cards can fit in one! It may be tempting to try and cull a flush but there are only 11 cards remaining in the deck for us to cull to make that hand. To cull a straight, there are 12 cards (5’s, 7’s, and 9’s) we can pull from. I know its close, but if it saves a second, it’s worth it!

So what if it’s a 4 and 9 of clubs?

We can’t make the straight by culling just 3 cards, so we shoot for the flush.

How about we spot a King of diamonds and a 4 of hearts?

What should we cull?

Obviously we can’t cull a straight or a flush so we would shoot for the full house. There’s only 6 cards remaining in the deck so it’s quite a gap from a straight or flush, but our next best option.

Applying this to Erdnase:

Of course it’s obvious to see how this can be used for methods of stocking, locating, and securing; but it is also can make for a great little demo when using Erdnase’ technique ”to ascertain the top cards while riffling and reserve them at bottom”. Just peak the bottom two cards and add as you can!

Just for the blog readers

Video: 'Ordinary Methods Of Stocking, Locating And Securing'

From a shuffled deck. I'd say one of the hardest moves in Erdnase to perform deceptively.

Simplifying The Erdnase System of Cull Shuffling

To put it bluntly, Erdnase is a difficult read. The culling section is so confusing with all the unnecessary math and lack of spacing in the descriptions it can be quite intimidating to even someone that is very familiar with the concepts. I cannot count how many times I’ve read the technique, cards in hand, and performed the same line twice destroying my previous work. My goal in this essay is to simplify the Erdnase culling process by taking out the math and breaking down the steps to an elementary level. I use the same terminology from the culling of two to nine cards, so the reader can progress easily and have an elevated understanding of what is taking place.

One area many individuals have trouble with is discerning the difference between the top card and the first card mid-shuffle when the cards are split between the hands. Erdnase defines the difference between these two terms under the heading “Technical Terms” earlier in the book.

I replace using the term “first card” with “first drawn card” so the reader understands it is the first card drawn off the right hand packet, and replaced “top card” with “top card of left hand packet”

It may be a good idea for you to practice by turning the cards you want to cull face up. I suggest you place them in the example positions and attempt the steps using my given numbers before trying it from a random deck. They are correct- trust me.

To Cull Two Cards

We are going to start from the top although it may sound simple to some. There’s only two numbers you will have to remember:

A= Number of cards (from the top) before the first desired card

B= Number of cards in between (and including) the first and second card

Example: Sound confusing? It’s not I promise. Go get your deck, I’ll wait.

Ready? Okay, pull out two Queens and place them in the following order: Random card (or X card as I will call them later), Random card, Queen, Random card, Random card, Queen.

A would equal 2 because there are two cards before our first Queen

B would equal 4 because there are two cards inbetween our two Queens (which we are also counting)

Here are the steps to cull the Queens to the bottom of the deck:

1. Undercut approx. half, injog the first drawn card, shuffle off, cut to injog (this is just done to position the cards to be stacked on top of the right hand packet)

2. Run A

3. Injog first drawn card (count as number one) and run the rest of B

4. Outjog next drawn card and shuffle off

5. Undercut to outjog forming break at injog

6. Injog first drawn card (this number will never change, we are just positioning those queens together) throw to break, shuffle off

7. Cut to injog and throw on top

The only part of that sequence that is ever going to change is the numbers in A and B. So what if the Queens were positioned 8 and 4 as in Erdnase’s example?

A would equal 7 for the number of X cards before the first Queen

B would equal 5 because there are 3 cards separating our 2 Queens

All I have really done is eliminated the extra math by getting a better understanding of the placement of the cards. Once you feel comfortable with culling two cards, move onto the next section.

To Cull Three Cards

Want to cull three of a kind? Erdnase has you covered. Here’s what you will have to remember:

A= Number of cards (from the top) before the first desired card

B= Number of cards in between (and including) first and second card

C= Number of cards between the second and third desired card

Example: We have three Kings positioned every fourth card from the top. (X card, X card, X card, King, X Card, X Card, X Card, King, etc...) The numbers you would remember are:

A= 3

B= 5

C= 3

Here are your steps:

1. Undercut approx. half, injog the first drawn card, shuffle off, cut to injog

2. Run A

3. Injog first drawn card (count as number one) and run the rest of B

4. Outjog next drawn card (count as number one) and run rest of C

5. Throw remaining stack on top

6. Undercut to outjog forming break at injog

7. Injog top card of left hand packet, run one card (this number will never change), throw to break, and shuffle rest of stack on top

8. Cut to injog and throw on top

To Cull Four Cards

So let’s say you have the four Aces spotted near the top and you want to get them all together. Easy as pie. There will be four numbers (surprise!) to memorize.

A= Number of cards (from the top) before the first desired card

B= Number of cards in between (and including) first and second card

C= Number of cards between the second and third desired card

D= Number of cards between the third and fourth card

Example: Let’s assume the four aces are every third card from the top (as in: X card, X card, Ace, X card, X card, Ace, etc....). The numbers you would remember are:

A=2

B=4

C=2

D=2

Here are your steps:

1. Undercut approx. half, injog the first drawn card, shuffle off, cut to injog

2. Run A

3. Injog first drawn card (count as number one) and run the rest of B

4. Outjog next drawn card (count as number one) and run rest of C

5. Throw remaining stack on top

6. Undercut to outjog forming break at injog

7. Injog top card of left hand packet, run one card (this number will never change), throw to your break, and shuffle rest of stack on top

8. Undercut to injog and run D and throw on top

This will leave you with three Aces on bottom and one on top. Erdnase suggests alleviating this by simply running one card into the left hand and throwing the balance of the deck on top.

To Cull 9 Cards

If there was ever a part of Erdnase I was guilty of skipping, this would be it. Erdnase System of Cull Shuffling- To Cull Nine Cards

Even the title is intimidating. And I know what you’re thinking. Hey, I know how to cull 2, 3, and 4 cards, why the heck would I want to memorize all those numbers to cull 9 cards?

Well here’s the thing....

You are not culling 9 cards, you are culling 3 sets (or groups) of cards. Whether that be face cards, red/black cards, cards of a certain suit, or even face down cards in a face up deck- as long as they are in 3 groups you are good to go. You could even use this simple technique to cull 3 single cards! And you only have to remember 4 key numbers to execute it. Keep in mind this cull was optimally designed to cull cards that are already in 3 groups of 3 or more. I would suggest using this cull after a hearts or spades demonstration, where you have the suits already clumped together in the collected tricks.

Here’s all you need to memorize:

A= number of cards before first group

B= number from (and including) first desired card to last desired card of second group

C= number of cards between second and third group

D= number of cards in second group

Example: Let’s say we have 3 groups that each contain 3 Diamonds. There are two indifferent cards separating each group. (X card, X card, 3 Diamond cards, X card, X card, 3 Diamond cards, X card, X card, 3 Diamond cards) The numbers you would remember are:

A=2

B=8

C=2

D=3

Here are the steps (really broken down):

1. Undercut approx. half, injog the first drawn card, shuffle off, cut to injog

2. Run A

3. Injog first drawn card (count as number 1) and run the rest of B

4. Outjog next drawn card (count as number 1) and run rest of C

5. Throw remaining stack on top

6. Undercut to outjog and form a break at injog

7. Injog top card of left hand packet

8. Run D

9. Throw to break shuffle off

10. Cut to injog and throw on top

One little tidbit that’s going to confuse you when you practice this:

You are only going to get the first card of the last grouping on the bottom, the rest will be on top. If you want to have all the cards on the bottom, you just need to memorize a 5th number, the number of cards in the 3rd group, and run that number minus one (because you’ll already have one where you want it) from the top to the bottom after the previous 10 steps.

Off topic, Shadow Puppet Theater

Many students of mine have asked me to put up this video, so here it goes.

If you want to see a compilation of shadow puppets

videos check out the playlist I put together

False Faro w/ Cascade Turorial

As far as I know, this is my own technique.

I have never seen someone perform a false faro with a bridge.

If you know of a similiar handling that is in

print or on video, please let me know in the comments.

The Phantom Cookbook

Todays special: itsagunnabe Cherry Saladwitz

Ok so lets-a cook up some hate salad!

first ingredient isa deep-dish hatred probably fromma my youth.

Takea 3 ada tea spoons of BS and apply it tua someones work. I lika makefunna da Crimp.

Thena, steal whatta dey say and change it tua someting else.

Rip uppada leetuce and drop it in ontoppa.

And thena boom! You gotsda Cherry Saladwitz.